I visited Mexico City for the first time in 2018. Then, purple jacaranda flowers bloomed to welcome spring, and sunshine warmed the air. I spent four days in the city eating flavor-filled tacos at outdoor markets and restaurants, visiting Teotihuacan Pyramids and Casa Azul, dancing salsa at Mama Rumba, and sharing tequila on a boat in Xochimilco. I knew even before the four days ended that I wanted to return, but I had no idea when, so I treated this trip like it was the only one I would get. 

Turns out that it wasn’t. 5 years later, I landed in Mexico City again, this time with my suitcase packed for a month-long stay. My friends, partner, and I rented apartments in the Hipodromo neighborhood, a quaint area with tree-lined streets and lush green parks. 

During the month in Mexico, I wrote in my journal daily (something that has become a tradition on my travels, whether I visit for 3 days or 30). I pulled some excerpts from my journal to share as the final story in the “Traveling Mexico” series. 

Oct.15

I love how green Mexico City is. The city is teeming with cars and buses but also planted shrubs and crawling plants that snake around building walls. 

I also love that people are so openly affectionate: couples sit shoulder to shoulder on park benches, hands clasped, heads leaning in close, sharing carefree kisses and hugs. 

Oct.19

The work day is over, so LB and I are heading to the Frida Kahlo Museum –Casa Azul – in Coyoacán.

The house is now more of a museum than when I first visited, and it preserves the art and stories of Frida Kahlo and her partner, Diego Rivera. 

Each room is filled with artwork created by the Mexican pair: sketches on paper, hand-drawn self-portraits, sculptures, and pottery. I was inspired by how prolific Frida was and how she didn’t feel confined to one artistic medium. Pictures of the house’s interior required a prepaid fee, but I was happy to walk through without taking any photos. 

Outside, a lush garden decorates the grounds in swaths of color: plants with dark and light green leaves sprout from the ground, contrasting with the bright orange petals of marigold blossoms. 

Oct. 22 

We are 7,500 feet above sea level, and my body feels it. I’m breathless just from walking on the street or up the stairs. Adjusting to high altitude is clearly going to take longer than 10 days. Today, Yemi and I went walking in the Reforma neighborhood, and I tried to remember to take slower steps. 

As we approached the stone fountain in the middle of the avenue, music filled the air and got louder as we got closer. People gathered in large groups wearing elaborate costumes I recognized from pictures and films about Dia de Los Muertos celebrations. 

The actual holiday is in November, but festivities have already started. There were faces painted to look like skeletons, headbands made from marigold blossoms, stalls selling skeleton face balloons, and vendors offering intricate face painting and tattoos. It was unexpectedly lively, so we lingered, enjoying the music and costume parade. 

Leaving Reforma, we walked nearby to Juarez for brunch at Niddo Cafe. Everything I ordered here tasted amazing, from my ice-cold Aperol Spritz to a plate of fluffy donut-shaped pancakes and a delicious grilled cheese sandwich.

I saved Niddo to my Mexico City list on Google Maps to remember to come back. 

Nov. 2

Tonight, my friends and I visited Yemanya for dinner. It’s a seafood restaurant that serves Latin-American fusion. I recognized Mexican, Peruvian, and Brazilian influences on the menu.  

Our starter was something tasty –toasted blue corn tortillas served with three different salsas; my favorite was made from mangoes and hot chili peppers.

For a main course, I ordered a ceviche –Ceviche Tatemado. It came with fresh fish, vegetables, and charred avocado in a flavorful smoky broth that reminded me of Nigerian pepper soup. I drank every last drop. 

Nov. 7

I woke up excited today because Yemi and I are going to Mercado Jamaica, a sprawling flower market in the city. 

We arrived at the market early, when vendors were still setting up their stalls, opening up crates of roses, beautiful in their pale pinks and reds. 

Flowers of all kinds brightened up the otherwise gray space. Marigold blossoms, roses, tulips, sunflowers, and large bouquets of baby’s breath sat beautifully on wooden crates, waiting to be purchased or shipped to expectant florists. 

We walked around window shopping at first and then exchanged our pesos for so many plants and flowers that we needed help loading them into our Uber. 

I made a bouquet of white roses and baby’s breath and earned some painful pricks. Despite the tiny stinging wounds, I enjoyed the process. It felt therapeutic to make something with my hands and fulfilling to make something beautiful. 

Nov. 8 

Today, I spent some time in the Centro Historico (historic center) visiting Museo de Arte Popular (Folk Art Museum). Piñata-style installations hung like garlands from the ceiling, wrapping around the first and second-floor balconies.

There are three floors here, dedicated to displaying Mexican artwork from indigenous and contemporary artists. In my favorite piece, circular-shaped wooden plates are inserted into the wall in a repeating pattern of vertical and horizontal rows. 

I found the museum so aesthetically pleasing that I could not stop pulling out my phone to take pictures. 

Nov. 9. 

There are more Black people in Mexico City now than when I first visited; at least, I notice more. But maybe it is still not expected to see Black people around because I have received blatant stares while on the street. Unlike San Miguel de Allende, where my friends and I received countless photo requests, I haven’t had anyone here do much more than stare, thankfully. I guess these are the inevitabilities of traveling while Black. 

Nov.10 

Goodbye, Mexico City. 

After an almost 5-hour delay, our flight is finally called to board for San Francisco. At this moment, my emotions are at opposite extremes. I’m happy to return to the familiarity of home and my routine in San Francisco and leave the severe allergies I could not find relief from in Mexico City. Still, I’m sad that I’ve said goodbye to one of my best friends, officially committing to a long-distance relationship. I know I’ll adjust to our new normal, the way I have with my loved ones all my life, but for today, I’ll allow myself to be sad.

Post Script:

There were things I loved about Mexico City, things I thought it would take a bit to get used to, and things I didn’t love, but as far as places go, Mexico City is one of my favorites. There’s delicious food, abundant green space, a world of art and history in its streets, and a slowness that feels right for me. I know I will happily visit again. 

If you made it this far, thank you for reading the “Traveling Mexico” series. It has been a pleasure to write and relive that month in the process. If this is the first story you’re reading, there are also stories from Tulum & San Miguel de Allende. You can find them by starting here.

Good to Know

Getting there: I flew nonstop from San Francisco to Mexico City on United Airlines. I used Google Flights to track ticket itineraries and prices. 

Where we stayed: We stayed in two Airbnb apartments, since we could not find one for the entire month (likely due to the Dia de Los Muertos holiday). You can book the same places here and here. 

Curious about Dia de Los Muertos? You can learn more about this holiday here.

Getting around: I got around by walking and taking Ubers. There is also public transportation available. 

Although English is spoken at some establishments, Spanish is widely spoken. If you do not speak Spanish, it’s a good idea to plan your visit with a friend who does, or download Google Translate and save Spanish as an offline language. 

CDMX, DF, La Ciudad – all abbreviations that refer to Mexico City. 

Dining: Mexico City is experiencing a wave of popularity, and the dining scene is bustling, so booking restaurant reservations in advance is advisable.

Beyond Mexico City: Mexico City is a great starting point to visit other destinations in Mexico like Oaxaca, Merida, the Riviera Maya, San Miguel de Allende + more.

Thinking of planning a trip to Mexico? check out the Same Footprints Guide for a detailed itinerary. 

As always, 

Thank you for reading! 

---

Same Footprints, Different Sands