Puerto Vallarta, Revisited

After my first visit to Puerto Vallarta in December 2021, I wasn’t exactly itching to return. Don’t get me wrong—I loved my time in the resort town of Nuevo Vallarta, where I spent sun-warmed days toggling between pajamas and swimsuits and watching sunsets from a hot tub facing the ocean. It was exactly what I needed after a demanding year at work. But when I left, I didn’t feel the desire to come back.

Fast forward to 2025: my friend Yem decides to host her post-wedding weekend in Puerto Vallarta. Again, I’m in recovery mode—this time from the whirlwind of wedding festivities in Guadalajara—and I’m looking forward to three unhurried days with a loose itinerary and plenty of sleep.

Old Town Vallarta

We land in Puerto Vallarta and walk into a scene of organized chaos. The airport is sensory overload: fluorescent signs advertise taxi and rental car services, uniformed drivers repeatedly ask if you “need a taxi” before moving on to the next available tourist, and scammy timeshare companies try to reel you in with the promise of a free breakfast. I get overstimulated easily, so I move through the airport with a singular focus, ignoring everything I don’t need.

We book our taxis at an approved booth and split into groups based on our accommodations. Most of the group stays at the high-rise Hotel Mio in the center of the Zona Hotelera, a strip lined with towering hotels. My partner and I, however, choose a more intimate stay at Casa Nawalli, a small boutique hotel nestled in Old Town Vallarta.

We’re greeted outside by Fabiola, a cheerful concierge who grabs our bags and guides us through a smooth check-in. Then, she gives us a brief tour of the hotel’s grounds, which feature beautiful white-tiled balconies overlooking the Pacific Ocean and an endless stretch of blue sky.

Lunch is at Barcelona Tapas, where we share plates of sizzling garlic shrimp, fragrant saffron rice, and one of my favorite tapas: pan con tomate—crispy slices of bread topped with flavorful tomato sauce. By the time our plates are cleared, a nap feels inevitable, so we take a leisurely stroll back to Casa Nawalli, retreating to our air-conditioned room for the rest of the afternoon.

Evening arrives in technicolor. There’s something special about sunsets in Puerto Vallarta. Streaks of violet and amber saturate the sky, brightening and then darkening in a scene that’s hard to pull my eyes away from. 

Later, we meet up with friends for dinner at Food Park PV, an open-air food court built from what appear to be shipping containers. Our meals are packed with flavor—grilled arrachera tacos topped with herbs, onions, and myriad salsas, plus melty quesadillas. The evening hums with easy conversation until plates are clean and drinking glasses sit empty on our tables. We end the night with hugs, and goodbyes, and reminders to show up at 8 a.m. for our ATV ride.

Canopy River Park

I might willingly leap off a cliff, snorkel in open water, or even rappel down a building—but I’ve always disliked ATVs. When Yem suggests the excursion, my instinct is to find an alternative, but her gentle threats persistence wins me over.

So, clad in a bandana, dust goggles, and a helmet, and clutching my partner’s waist for dear life from the backseat, we zip through dusty dirt roads, across suspension bridges, and into a lush, green landscape. We pause at a waterfall for a quick, cool dip, then continue to Mirador Las Guacamayas, a viewpoint overlooking the valley, finally ending with a slow ride above the treetops on Jorullo Bridge.

Despite the thrill and the breathtaking views, I’m relieved when we complete the circuit and dismount the ATVs for our next activity: a tequila tasting. Our guide, Kevin, walks us through each pour, describing the flavors, cautioning us about the stronger ones, and teaching us some unexpectedly funny chants as we raise our shot cups in salutations. Every toast begins with a chorus of “O tequila, tequila” and ends in laughter.

Las Animas Beach Club

An hour later, we’re back in town in time to regroup for our next adventure—a boat ride to Las Animas Beach Club. At Los Muertos Pier, we negotiate a fair rate for the journey and climb into two sister boats cruising side by side, the sky and ocean stretching around us in a blanket of contrasting blues.

In the distance, a pod of whales dips in and out of the ocean, drawing excited yelps from my mouth. I pull out my phone just in time to catch the last of their swim before they disappear beneath the surface. In this moment, buoyed by my friends’ laughter, with Afrobeats and R & B mingling with the waves, and the cool sea air whipping past my face, I feel… light.

The boats stop a few feet from the shore at Las Animas, where smaller canoes pull up to ferry us to the beach. Past a thick grove of trees sits the beach club, swathed in soft beiges and browns, with large cushioned seats that envelop me as I sink in.

Live music drifts over us from a stage above our seats as waiters move swiftly through the crowd, taking orders for our large group: whole grilled fish, octopus ceviche, meat-filled tacos, and spice-rimmed cocktails. Again, everything we eat is delicious.

Despite the music blaring, I slip into a post-lunch nap, nestled between two of my girlfriends, feeling happy and content. Puerto Vallarta, while not the place I initially wanted to return to, turned out to be exactly what I needed.

Good to Know

How to get to Las Animas:

Las Animas is a 1-hour boat ride from Puerto Vallarta (Los Muertos Pier). We found a local sailor by the pier and negotiated a roundtrip price (~$32 per person) for our group. Cash is preferred (USD or Pesos).

Make sure to get the sailor’s number in case you need to leave earlier than planned.

Upon arrival at Las Animas, we paid 1,200 pesos per boat for two smaller boats to ferry us to shore. This is also paid in cash.

My favorite eats:

• Arrachera tacos at Food Park PV
  
• Tres Leches at Campomar
  
• Arrachera Fillet at La Vaca Argentina
  
• Garlic Shrimp at Barcelona Tapas
  

Where we stayed:
Casa Nawalli

Flights:
We flew Viva Aerobus from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta. I use Google Flights to track all my tickets.

Note:
Puerto Vallarta is incredibly popular with tourists, so expect crowds at major attractions. When we visited in February, the city didn’t feel particularly busy. December to March is considered peak season.

As always,
Thank you for reading!

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Same Footprints, Different Sands